In the Bleak Midwinter (December 2010)

In the bleak midwinter, frosty wind made moan,
Earth stood hard as iron, water like a stone;
Snow had fallen, snow on snow, snow on snow,
In the bleak midwinter, long ago.

Very appropriate except it probably should say ‘just a while ago’ and they’re not kidding with the ‘snow on snow, snow on snow’ bit are they? On Saturday 18th trusting to the weather reports I popped out to the shops for the paper and a spot of panic buying early in the morning. The Met Office forecast snow at around noon. Almost as I shut my front door the few flakes fluttering lazily down from leaden skies turned into a howling blizzard. By the time I reached the main road the snow was crunching noisily under my boots and collecting on my eyelashes. The journey down by the river truly was magical.

The snow abated early afternoon leaving a crisp white even covering of about 6 cms. The birds seeing their chance descended on the feeding pole in our front garden with some relish. It’s a pretty grim time for garden birds; smaller birds like wrens lose the heat from their bodies pretty quickly, so they need to be eating all the time to survive. Trouble is they really need us to be putting food out for them because the berries on trees, the insects and fish in frozen ponds and rivers, small mammals, or the worms and insects in the frozen ground are all inaccessible. But they love grated cheese, porridge oats, fruit, cooked pasta and rice (before sauce), cooked potatoes, and unsalted bacon, cooked or raw. Festive things like pastry and cake crumbs are also welcome.

Sport was another big casualty of the weekend. I’d been looking forward to watching the mighty Chelsea get back on form by beating Manchester U but that game was called off a day early. Post has been severely interrupted as well – not great at this time of year. (Hope of everybody who Amazon’s their presents got their stuff delivered on time – aah the worries of modern life.) But talking about post my favourite Christmas card is without doubt the one that has an Edwyn Collins illustration of a robin on the front.

With the snow largely melted from London on Tuesday evening (winter solstice day) with images of Odin slaying the frost giant Ymir playing in my head I set off to lead a Metropolitan Walkers walk based around Dickens in London. I’m a big Dickens fan me – and Wilkins Micawber always seems appropriate but even more so these days: “Annual income twenty pounds, annual expenditure nineteen pounds nineteen and six, result happiness. Annual income twenty pounds, annual expenditure twenty pounds ought and six, result misery. The blossom is blighted, the leaf is withered, the god of day goes down upon the dreary scene, and – and in short, you are for ever floored.” They don’t write ‘em like that anymore – well sadly not George Osborne’s speechwriters anyway. (You young readers might want to find an old person to explain the vagaries of pre-decimalized currency to you. And anybody who can explain to me whether ‘Oik’ Osborne has any economic theory, however misguided, underpinning his cost cutting programme would be more than welcome.)

After a very enjoyable walk I had a couple of beers in The Dickens Inn at St Katherine’s Dock. I couldn’t find any connection to Dickens himself but thinking it was just a ruse to drag in the tourists I was told that one of his great great grandchildren opened the pub here years ago when the re-development of Docklands began. The journey home was definitely messy. Held up for over 45 minutes at Earls Court while police attempted to clear revellers off the rails near West Kensington I was forced to re-route to Heathrow on the Piccadilly line and catch a 24 hour bus back home. Got in just before 2 am. Ah the problems of winter travel in the UK. So with the modern version of the Nativity apparently being no room at the airport terminal I hope you all had a great holiday break.

I’m leading a walk in early 2011 – Sunday 16 January starting at 11 am at Maida Vale station. It’s a rock ‘n’ roll walk that’s about 5 miles and will finish in the Captains Cabin near Piccadilly Circus. Everybody is welcome. 

Useful links:
o The Ramblers    http://www.ramblers.org.uk/
o Metropolitan Walkers  http://www.metropolitan-walkers.org.uk/
o Winter Solstice   http://tinyurl.com/25sto2 
o Feeding Garden Birds  http://tinyurl.com/ydrffga 
o Amazon    http://www.amazon.co.uk/
o Edwyn Collins Cards   http://tinyurl.com/2w8y4ma
o Odin     http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Odin
o Ymir     http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ymir
o Charles Dickens   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Dickens
o Mr Micawber    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wilkins_Micawber
o Dickens Inn    http://www.dickensinn.co.uk/
o Captains Cabin   http://tinyurl.com/mws59c

Listen to:
Annie Lennox – In The Bleak Midwinter
Edwyn Collins – Girl Like You
Dolly Parton – Santa Claus Is Coming To Town
Darren Hayman & The Secondary Modern – Winter Makes You Want Me More
Charles Dickens – Christmas Ghosts

Snowshoes introduce a whole new acoustic to walking. On the hard icy stuff, the free heels flap and clack and the studded soles scrape. I felt about as unobtrusive as a one-man-band. But among the soft, fresh stuff I just sank a little with a comforting ‘flumff’. I was following my local guide, Murielle, through a forest in the Jura mountains on the French-Swiss border, and we were on the hard stuff. To have been making so much noise seemed sacrilegious as all other sounds were muffled in the snow-laden forest. Yet despite the din, Murielle continued to look earnestly for signs of wildlife and called for me to catch up and inspect her most recent find. Would it be the tracks of a lynx – the wild-ranging cat of which there are about 200 pairs in the Jura? Or had she spotted a gelinotte, a rare cousin of the capercaillie? Alas, most tracks belonged to long-gone chamois and foraging squirrels – it seemed most unlikely they didn’t know we were coming from several miles away. So, giving up on the prospect of ever seeing any wild animals, I instead revelled in my new-found snowy freedom. Rather than staggering clumsily through the drift, the snowshoes allowed us to proceed with dignity at a respectable three kilometres per hour. The smooth, white crust laying several feet deep over the terrain below covers a rocky black bog that in summer would be riven with roots and crawling with vipers.

Freedom to explore
The forest was a good place to get accustomed to walking in snowshoes, but I was eager to move onto some steeper ground too and get above the tree line to assess my domain. So from the forest in the valley, we carefully skirted a frozen lake to climb up through the thinning trees towards the Swiss border and the viewpoint at La Roche-Bernard. Our journey traced that of smugglers and French Jews escaping to Switzerland. In both cases they were forced to take the hardest routes, often in winter and at night, to avoid customs officers or Nazi patrols. The snowshoes performed well on the steep ascent. These are not the old-fashioned, tennis racket-style shoes of dubious efficacy; rather they’re lightweight, plastic, quickly fitted to most walking boots and relatively cheap. Of course they spread your weight, minimising how much you sink in the snow. But they also have small metal studs on the sole for effective grip and a set of teeth at the toe of the boot, similar to the front points on crampons, which can be thrust into the snow or ice on steeper ground for extra leverage. In addition to the shoes, you need gaiters to keep your feet warm and dry, and walking poles for balance and hauling you out of the odd deep drift. But apart from the kit, there’s no special technique to snowshoeing except to remember that you can’t walk backwards (the tail of the shoe is likely to get caught in the snow and trip you up).

When we finally reached La Roche-Bernard, the far-reaching views allowed an understanding of the Jura mountains. Reaching just over 1,700m/5,577ft, this rolling range has wide boat-shaped valleys  that gather snow easily and are home to many tiny hamlets. Overshadowed by the nearby Alps, the Jura mountains are often overlooked as a walking destination. But unlike its southern neighbours, the Jura’s valleys (known as combes) and modest summits are, in winter, criss-crossed by thousands of kilometres of snowshoeing and ski-touring trails, allowing walkers almost endless winter adventures.

Mountain hut camaraderie
On day two, eager for further adventures, Murielle led me off in search of a view of Mont Blanc, giving me an insight into typical winter-life in the region along the way. As we climbed out of the Combe des Cives, Murielle explained that the people of the Jura have come to terms with their snowbound conditions. Their low-slung homes are built in such a way that the animal feed also insulates the living quarters, fresh water is sourced from melting snow on the roof, and their animals live on the windward side. However, it’s the need to socialise and keep spirits up that is considered the most important aspect of surviving the winter purdah. And as we neared the top of the 1,300m/4,265ft ridge, we were joined by skiers and walkers from every direction – all of us bound for lunch at the Pres d’haut hut. Ramshackle and low to the ground, the Pres d’haut exudes old mountain charm and the small windows – opaque with condensation – point to an inner warmth. Beyond the door at the back of the byre, in a wood-lined dining room, at least 40 of us crowded onto two long benches waiting for custodian Georges to bring thick pea soup and rye bread. Evocative of an Antarctic base camp, wet hats and gloves hang around a wood-fired stove, where Georges’ wife poured water into coffee cups from a pot kept on the boil. Unreachable by car and only open in winter, it’s a treat that only those who arrive on snowshoes or skis can enjoy. Georges explained to anyone who asked that he had to drag a sledge carrying 40kg of fresh supplies from the valley every day. Wedged into a corner, I listened as locals – some of whom visited two to three times a week – regaled us with snowshoeing and skiing adventures all over Europe. One man told how he had once encountered the king of Sweden while skiing in a Swedish forest; another had skied down the treacherous, closed road leading from the Great St Bernard pass, and was forced to improvise a break to avoid an accident. The atmosphere inside became so convivial that the wintry weather outdoors was transformed into something to be relished and enjoyed.

Spirit of adventure

It’s the kind of place typical of the Jura, and one of many huts offering overnight accommodation along the Grande Traversée du Jura – a newly developed 135km/84-mile route that starts in Mouthe and ends in Giron. Left to my own devices for day three, I embarked on a remote section of the Grande Traversée from the ski resort of Les Rousses to Lajoux, via the chalet de la Frasse and the Forêt due Massacre. It was a wrench to leave chalet de la Frasse’s massive log fire as it began to heavily snow outside. Following the yellow posts and flags that are placed along the route for the winter season, I made my way across the high open meadow. The contours grew increasingly vague in what was a completely covered snowscape – the whole terrain was as ephemeral as a billowing bed-sheet, making crests and hollows increasingly difficult to fix upon. Moments like this made my trip feel exciting and epic, and my mind kept wandering to scenes from Where Eagles Dare and The Heroes of Telemark. I started appraising a chalet d’alpage for use as a shelter should the blizzard get any worse. Yet at no time did I feel in any real danger. The conditions were definitely not benign, but the route was comprehensively signposted and many new bunkhouses have been opened so there’s never an unreasonable gap between them. Indeed, it’s as safe as it can be without taking away all the adventure. My final exploit was to summit the Cret de la Neige – at 1,720m/5,643ft, the highest point in the Jura. In perfect weather we climbed from the downhill ski resort at Lelex onto an undulating crest that provided a balcony on the Alps and Mont Blanc in particular. The snow was deep and soft and the temperature was approaching -15˚C, but it didn’t stop us picnicking at the top in typically languorous French fashion while admiring the stunning alpine views. And that, for me, sums up the special appeal of the Juras. They’re on a scale that liberates rather than intimidates, and they show just how much can be achieved with a simple pair of snowshoes.

Time/Distance: It takes about nine days to complete the whole 135km/84 miles of the Grande Traversée du Jura in winter. The weather can be severe and temperatures can dip to -20˚C, so plan accordingly and build in extra time.
Accommodation: A one-stop booking service can be found at www.gtj.asso.fr (or ✆ +33 384 515151).
Travel to: There are a number of stations within easy reach of the Grande Traversée du Jura, including Frasne, Bellegarde, Pontarlier and Geneva, that are served by the TGV from Paris. Fares from London to Geneva start at £118 for a standard class return with Rail Europe (✆ 0844 848 4070, www.raileurope.co.uk).
Travel around: Public transport is patchy and difficult to co-ordinate. The best approach is to organise transfers with accommodation providers or to hire a car.
Holidays: Ramblers Worldwide Holidays offer an eight-day snowshoeing tour in the Italian Dolomites, starting from £946 per person (✆ 01707 331133, www.ramblersholidays.co.uk).
Further info: www.jura-tourism.com; www.parc-haut-jura.fr.

True Grit (Saturday/Sunday January 9/10)

With the UK still covered in a blanket of snow the news has been full of items about gritting – well more correctly a lack of gritting and the dwindling supplies of grit. (Who’d have guessed we’d all become such experts on the ratio of grit to salt to make it effective? Apparently 50/50 is best.) There’s even been a spate of stories about organised thefts of the stuff – my word. Anyway despite continued snowfall, walking went on in London. In fact people seemed desperate for something to do – something that didn’t involve being indoors.

On the evening of Wednesday 6 January (the night Arsenal cancelled their Premier game with Bolton) 20 hardy souls had turned up amongst the snow flurries for a short walk from Temple to Holborn. This was the first in a programme of January Wednesday evening walks put on by the Met Walkers (all led by me) and all starting from Temple station at 7 pm to help people stick to their New Year resolutions. (I’m getting into the swing of it by sticking to a 2 pint maximum on Wednesdays!) This was nothing to the turnout on Saturday 9 January at Richmond.
 

For a joint Met Walkers and Hampstead groups walk over 70 punters pitched up at Richmond station at 10.30 in the morning. A heaving mass of 4+ layered, gore-tex wearing, gloved and hatted walkers with breath steaming from their mouths. (Judging by this assembled throng ear muffs were the gift of choice from friends and family. Socks are so last decade!) There were members from other local groups (all their walks had been cancelled) itching to get out. The 10 mile circular stroll was well appreciated by all who turned out and everybody thought a snowy Richmond Park was magical. I know we’re all getting mightily tired of these ‘unprecedented’ sights that now come with each day of snow but Teddington lock was frozen – I didn’t expect that and don’t s’pose that’s been seen since the big freeze of 1963 when all the canals froze over.

Of course this time of year ain’t just about walking it’s also about overindulging – I’m such a traditionalist me. Have you ever wondered why ‘a hair of the dog’ actually works? Well those who know me will be quick to tell you I’m no scientist but here’s what I’ve read. You know that unpleasant effect of vertigo you get when try to stand up and walk around when you’ve got a bad hangover. Well that’s caused by too much alcohol in your bloodstream. (So far so simple and so obvious). Your organs of balance are 3 semicircular canals roughly at right angles to each other filled with fluid located in your inner ear. That’s your inner ear not your inner child – easy mistake to make. One canal detects rotation of the head round a vertical axis, another nodding movements and the final rotation from your nose to the back of your head. Still with me? On a normal alcohol-free day the density of all this fluid is similar to that of your blood. And this is important because the correction data needed to balance changes when the density of this fluid changes. As alcohol levels rise this fluid becomes diluted. Your clever old brain then compensates and makes you dizzy. Taking another drink dilutes the blood and keeps you, quite literally, in balance. Cheers everyone. 

Our final walk of this blog went from Blackheath to Woolwich via Oxleas Woods and Shooters Hill. A much more normal 17 turned up for this one. Regular readers will know that despite living in the heart of suburbia in south west London and being a lifelong Chelsea supporter I’m a sarf east Londoner through and through. (You can take the boy out of Lewisham but… ) The heath was nice and snowy but we’re all pretty tired of these snow covered scenes now I guess. Oxleas Woods is one of the few remaining areas of ancient deciduous forest and it dates back over 8,000 years. Shooters Hill rather unromantically gets its name from the archery that used to go on there. In time honoured tradition we finished up in the Wetherspoons in Woolwich and I trekked back across London using the DLR as the overground was closed due to engineering work.

The next Wednesday January evening strolls both start at Temple at 7 pm and will last a couple miles or so. (About an hour.) Everybody is welcome. Please check out the Facebook page of a new group recently setup – Capital Walkers. If for some strange reason you fancy seeing the dull prosaic work of the Ramblers in a meeting the Inner London Area AGM takes place in the Methodist International Centre, 81-103 Euston Street at 6.30 pm on Thursday 11 February 2010. All members welcome though I’m thinking all you British Sea Power fans will be off to see them play in Kingston.

More information
o Ramblers Business Plan 2009/10 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0PWPm8-aLKw&feature=player_embedded 

Useful links:
o The Ramblers    http://www.ramblers.org.uk/
o Capital Walkers     http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#/group.php?gid=183092363750&ref=ts
o Grit and salt supplies   http://www.lga.gov.uk/lga/core/page.do?pageId=7192206
o Capital Walkers on Facebook  http://www.facebook
o Metropolitan Walkers   http://www.metropolitan-walkers.org.uk/
o Hampstead Ramblers   http://hampsteadramblers.org.uk/
o Inner London area   http://www.innerlondonramblers.org.uk/
o MUJI earmuffs    http://preview.tinyurl.com/ykuzuzy
o Hangovers    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hangover
o Oxleas Woods    http://preview.tinyurl.com/4ns75
o DLR     http://preview.tinyurl.com/5jhezo 
o The Great Harry   http://www.jdwetherspoon.co.uk/home/pubs/the-great-harry
o Methodist International Centre http://www.micentre.com/
o British Sea Power   http://www.britishseapower.co.uk/live

Listen to:

Snow Patrol – Up To Now
Belle and Sebastian – The Fox In The Snow
British Sea Power – Victorian Ice
Squeeze – Footprints In The Frost – Saturday Sequence 19/10/1989
Vanilla Ice – Ice Ice Baby