Pen y Fan (886m/2,907ft)
GRID REF: SO011215
SPECIAL SUMMIT: The magnificent twin-summit fin of Pen y Fan (above) is one of Wales’s most popular peaks. Being higher – and tougher – than anything else to Britain’s south, the views it offers are incredible. On a good day you can expect to see the Bristol Channel, the bays of Cardigan, Carmarthen and Swansea, the Black Mountains and even Exmoor.
TOP APPROACH: From Cwm Gwdi car park, south-west of Brecon, the Cefn Cwm Llwch ridge hauls you directly on to Pen y Fan. Descending via Bryn Teg, from subsidiary summit Cribyn, turns the walk into an airy 12km/7½-mile horseshoe. Allow 4 hours.
FURTHER INFO: www.nationaltrust.org.uk

Twyn y Gaer (367m/1,204ft)
GRID REF: SN989280
SPECIAL SUMMIT: This Iron Age hillfort rises above the Afon Wysg (River Usk), offering commanding views north across the valley to Pen y Fan, the Brecon Beacons to the south and east, and the Black Mountains to the west. Earthworks on its southern slopes, known as pillow mounds, probably date from the 18th century and were used for large-scale rabbit rearing.
TOP APPROACH: A bridleway, running north-west along a gentle ridge from the Brecon Beacons Mountain Centre near Libanus, will take you to Twyn y Gaer in under 3km/2 miles. Allow one hour.
FURTHER INFO: www.breconbeacons.org

Ben Lomond (974m/3,196ft)
GRID REF: NN366028
SPECIAL SUMMIT: Stirlingshire’s highest point is also the most southerly and easily reached of the Munros. From the summit, Loch Lomond and its beautiful islands are arrayed at your feet, while the jagged peaks of the west feel close enough to reach out and touch.
TOP APPROACH: A good path leads through the Rowardennan woodlands, up the bare shoulder of Sron Aonaich and onward to the summit. The aesthete’s descent, via the Ptarmigan ridge, adds little distance to the 12km/7½ miles there and back but extends the time. Allow six hours.
FURTHER INFO: www.lochlomond-trossachs.org

Conic Hill (361m/1,184ft)
GRID REF: NS432923
SPECIAL SUMMIT: It’s a shame that the West Highland Way sweeps right by the summit of this mini Ben Lomond (pictured above), as the views it offers across the loch and islands are just as spectacular as those from its loftier neighbour. The hill stands right on the Highland Fault: to the north, everything is mountainous!
TOP APPROACH: The West Highland Way climbs from loch-side hamlet Balmaha for the simplest 5km/3-mile return trip up Conic Hill; a short detour from the trail’s highest point will bring you to the summit. Allow two hours.
FURTHER INFO: www.west-highland-way.co.uk

Royal Hill (412m/1,352ft)
GRID REF: SX607733
SPECIAL SUMMIT: Moorland hikes demand the same skills and equipment as hill-walking and can be equally challenging, especially in bad weather, when good navigation becomes critical. Royal Hill is wide and exposed, with excellent views across Dartmoor’s southern and northern moors, and characteristic tor outcrops. Prehistoric features include the Crock of Gold, a Bronze Age cist within a stone circle.
TOP APPROACH: The Dartmoor Way, a 138km/86-mile walkers’ and cyclists’ route, approaches Royal Hill along a bridleway from Hexworthy, 6km/4 miles east of the summit. You can combine this with routes across neighbouring hills and moors for a fine, exposed day’s exploration. Allow three
hours or more.
FURTHER INFO: www.dartmoor-npa.gov.uk

Bellever Tor (443m/1,421ft)
GRID REF: SX644764
SPECIAL SUMMIT: Dartmoor ponies help the Forestry Commission to look after the woodland surrounding dramatic Bellever Tor, improving wildlife habitat by grazing. The commission has provided several waymarked routes past ancient chambered tombs, burial mounds and stone rows en route to the tor and its extensive views across Dartmoor’s uplands.
TOP APPROACH: The waymarked Postbridge Trail leads south from the commission’s visitor centre car park, reaching the tor in just over a mile or so. Allow an hour.
FURTHER INFO: www.forestry.gov.uk

Smearsett Scar (363m/1,191ft)
GRID REF: SD802678
SPECIAL SUMMIT: Rarely visited, and inconveniently split between two Ordnance Survey maps, buttressed Smearsett Scar is a magnificent mountain in miniature. Its limestone pavement ridgeback is studded with eye-catching plants, such as wild pansies and yellow rock rose. Views extend across Ribblesdale and Three Peaks country.
TOP APPROACH: Where the track beyond isolated Feizor crests a brow, bear right across access land to Smearsett’s summit trig point. Pot Scar offers a precarious but breathtaking option. Allow two hours, returning the same way.
FURTHER INFO: www.yorkshiredales.org.uk

Ingleborough (724m/2,375ft)
GRID REF: SD741745
SPECIAL SUMMIT: Though not Yorkshire’s highest peak, Ingleborough (above) is the most mountainous; its profile the most iconic. The gritstone plateau cap rests on cave-pocked, layered limestone flanks that hide uncommon plants – such as bird’s eye primrose – and ancient features, including prehistoric burial mounds and medieval homesteads.
TOP APPROACH: Tackle the hill from the north-east, via subsidiary Park Fell’s ridge-edge path, to fully appreciate Ingleborough’s profile. Descend Little Ingleborough past Gaping Gill, and return via
Sulber Gate and Selside for a six-hour round trip
of some 23km/14 miles.
FURTHER INFO: www.yorkshiredales.org.uk

For three more fantastic twin peaks to conquer – plus a handy guide to the UK’s top ranges – pick up the Autumn 2011 issue of walk, available here or free if you join the Ramblers.

Images: Conic Hill by Ad Meskens; Bellever Tor by Derek Harper via geograph.org.uk; Ingleborough sunset by Papa November.

There are loads of specialist jackets out there, tailored for every kind of weather and activity. But is there a general all-rounder that will do the job on all but the most extreme British walks? Minnie Burlton and Paul McCarty take a look…

Fit & design
■ Freedom of movement is essential and the jacket needs to be long enough to protect your lower back, especially when you’re reaching forward or bending down.
■ Sleeves should be long enough and cuffs shouldn’t ride up. Check that all zips, stormflaps, drawcords, press studs and pockets can be operated with your gloves or mitts on.
■ Access to pockets shouldn’t be blocked by rucksack straps or a climbing harness.
■ Women’s-specific jackets – indicated by a (W) in the reviews – give a more feminine fit, so it’s good riddance to excess bulk, long arms and unflattering looks.

Drawcords
■ Can be used in the hood, waist and hem and are ideal for adjusting fit, keeping draughts at bay and trapping warm air.
■ They should be able to be neatly tucked away so they don’t dangle and snag on rocks, crampons or vegetation, etc.

Snowskirt
■ Fitted inside the waist, a snowskirt will help stop snow from getting in. But they add weight and aren’t to everyone’s liking.

Cuffs
■ Cuffs should adjust to fit your wrist snugly and shouldn’t ride up when you’re scrambling and stretching.
■ Velcro fastenings will ensure a close fit and elastic is often included, too.

Hood
■ A good hood will protect you from driving wind, rain and snow without restricting your vision. Think about whether you also need it to fit over a climbing helmet.
■ Check you can tuck the drawcord out of the way, so it doesn’t flap in your face in high winds.
■ Fixed hoods – rather than detachable or roll away – usually offer better structure, shape and fit. A volume adjuster will control the size of the hood.

Pockets
■ There should be an easily accessible pocket that you can fit a map in. Check that you can still reach the pockets with your rucksack on.
■ An inside secure zipped pocket is useful for keys, cash and cards etc.

Zips
■ Double stormflaps give the best protection; single stormflaps are easier to operate and allow the jacket to be lighter.
■ Chin guards or zip garages are often fitted at the top of the zip to prevent ‘zip scratch’.

Ventilation
■ In changeable weather, you don’t want to keep stopping to take layers on and off, so the capacity for ventilation is essential – even with breathable jackets.
■ Look for underarm pit zips, adjustable cuffs and mesh pockets to allow airflow to circulate.

Multi-activity, all-terrain, off-road, approach – whatever you call  these shoes, they’re sturdier than a trainer but more flexible and versatile than a walking boot.  It’s impossible to expect one  shoe to do it all, so make sure  you choose a pair that will suit  your needs and activities.

Cushioning
■ Good cushioning will add comfort and protect your body from jarring.
■ More padding is ideal for walking and trail-running. But for scrambling about or  if you’re after a better ‘feel’  for the ground, a stiffer and thinner shoe might be better.
Heel cup
■ The heel cup is used to hold the heel in place and prevent slippage and blisters.
■ You can feel how supportive it is by pinching it between finger and thumb.

Tongue
■ This should allow you to get your foot in and out easily, but also offer enough padding to prevent the laces from digging into your foot.
■ A bellows design will help prevent water and dirt creeping in down the sides of the tongue.

Uppers
■ Thicker uppers may provide long-lasting protection against knocks, but if their breathability is poor your feet may sweat and become wet from the inside.
■ The material and thickness will also affect the flexibility of the shoe. Open weave mesh is lightweight, very breathable and when lined with a waterproof lining ensures dry feet, while leather can be incredibly durable.

Midsole
■ To test how much lateral rigidity a shoe offers, twist the toe while holding the heel.
■ To check the flex, bend the toe towards the heel.

Footbed (inside)
■ A decent footbed that cushions and supports in
the right places is key.
■ Take it out to see how good it is. If they’re rather flimsy and flat, you could buy inserts – a good option is Superfeet footbeds (www.superfeet.co.uk) – which are far more supportive.

Grip
■ Check to see what the tread is like. Shallower grooves and less aggressive patterns will offer less grip on mud and wet grass.
■ However, for activities such as scrambling and walking on rocky terrain, a simpler profile will provide more traction.

Toe box
■ Toes can take a hammering from rocks and boulders when you’re scampering about on  the hills, so some protective stiffening around the end of  the shoe is useful.
■ For extra durability, look for a wide rubber rand which will protect the join between the upper and sole.

Fit
Try carefully before you buy and find the brand that best suits your foot shape. Check the ankle cuff is comfortable – especially at the heel where rubbing can be a problem – and the tongue sits neatly across your foot to prevent water getting in.

Leather or fabric
Both are breathable and waterproof. Fabric boots tend to be lighter and more comfortable at first, but the waterproof liners they often use can be sweaty in hot weather. Leather boots are harder wearing in the long term.

Construction
Boot construction consists of an upper, a midsole and a sole. Stiff uppers are better for rocky ground and winter use, so crampon straps can be added comfortably. Softer uppers are more comfortable and best for valley walking where less support and and protection is required. The midsole is responsible for providing longitudinal and lateral stiffness. To test the midsole, grab the boot by the toe and heel, and bend the heel towards the toe. Then twist the toe while holding the heel steady. The harder it is to bend the boot, the better suited it is to rocky ground, where you need more stiffness. Also, look for a flex point that corresponds to where your foot bends.

Toe box
The front of the boot gets the most abuse so a protective toe box is a useful feature. Press the toe box with your thumb to see how rigid and protective it is.

Grip
Look for an aggressive pattern of lugs on the sole. The deeper the lugs, the more durable and grippy they’ll be. Decent-sized gaps between the lugs will prevent clogging.

Cushioning
Stamp your feet and try bouncing on the heels. Some retailers provide sample rock and boulder surfaces to try walking over.

Support
Foot and ankle support will make uneven terrain more comfortable. A higher ankle cuff provides more support – especially important if you’re carrying a heavy load, and helpful for keeping out mud and grit. Good padding will keep this area comfortable.

Heel cup
This should be stiff and supportive. Pinch it between your fingers –if it’s soft and flexible it won’t offer much support.

Midsole
The midsole provides longitudinal and lateral stiffness. Bend the heel towards the toe and then twist the toe while holding the heel steady: the harder it is to bend, the better suited the boot is to rocky ground. For walking on trails and paths, a boot that bends with your foot is fine, but for scrambling and on rocks you will need more stiffness. Bend the forefoot; you’re looking for a flex point that corresponds to where your foot bends.

Outsole
Look for an aggressive pattern of lugs on the sole – the deeper the lugs,the more grip. To prevent mud clogging these up, there need to be decent-sized gaps between them.

Uppers
Stiffer boots may need a period of ‘wearing-in’ while they soften and mould to your foot. The upsides are that they generally offer more protection, hold the foot in place on uneven ground, last longer and perform well in winter conditions. More flexible boots are usually lighter, softer, more comfortable from the start and best for valley walks where less support and protection is required.

Cushioning
Stamp your feet and try bouncing on the heels. More cushioning is good for walking but less cushioning allows climbers and scramblers to ‘feel’ what they are standing on. The cheaper the boot, the less cushioning it normally has.

Fit
It’s crucial to find the right brand and boot that best fits the shape of your foot. As well as checking the length and width, make sure the tongue sits neatly across your foot and the ankle cuff is comfortable, especially at the heel where rubbing can be a problem. Many specialist outdoor shops can help with fitting, including stretching a boot to allow for a squashed toe, spur or bunion.

Fabric or leather?
Fabric boots tend to use a mix of nylon reinforced with suede leather, and include a waterproof liner for added protection. They tend to be lighter and more comfortable at the outset than leather boots, but can get sweatier in hot weather. Leather is breathable, highly water-resistant and perhaps more durable.

Support
Foot and ankle support with decent padding will make walking on rocky terrain more comfortable. A higher ankle cuff provides more support, and is helpful for keeping out mud and grit. If you prefer speed and agility, less support and more trainer-like boots will allow greater freedom of movement.

Waterproofing
Boots with a lot of stitching or made with synthetic materials are more prone to leaking, but a waterproof lining will guard against seepage. All the boots we tested have a waterproof lining: most use Gore-Tex but Alt-berg uses the excellent Sympatex, Keen uses their own liner, and Peter Storm has an unnamed option.

Durability
Minimal stitching, thick leather uppers, and rubber rands around the sides, toes and heels to protect from scuffing will all make the boot more hard-wearing.

Heel cup
Pinch the heel cup between the fingers. If it’s soft and flexible it won’t offer much support. A stiff, supportive heel cup offers more stability and is better for rocky and wintry terrain.

Lacing
The way you lace a boot up can make a huge difference to the fit, flexibility and comfort. Rounded lace-hooks give a more even pressure with a single tug, while some boots allow you to lace the ankle and forefoot sections at different tensions.

Toe box
The front of the boot gets the most abuse so a protective box is essential to guard your toes and for the durability of the boot. Press the box to feel how rigid and protective it is.

A stunning new film shows the life of a Lake District hill over the course of 24 hours – from the moon and stars at night to sunrise and a number of sheep and walkers turning up. Created as part of this year’s If You Could project by filmmaker Michael Moloneyand photographer John Hooper, it was shot around Pavey Ark near Great Langdale. The stunning 720° panorama (twice around) starts with the last light of day fading, rotating right as the moon rises and the stars come out. The constellation of Orion at last drops beyond the hill as the sun rises, before sheep and walkers can be seen crisscrossing the hills. Simply inspiring.

If you’re heading for the hills, a lightweight, packable insulated jacket that gives almost instant warmth when you stop for a break, reach the summit or potter around base camp is an invaluable piece of kit. It makes an ideal intermediary layer or can be pulled on as an outer layer over the top of your other clothing in cold and dry conditions. Many have a water-repellent coating, but be warned — if it’s raining hard, they’re no substitute for a waterproof jacket.

Insulation
Down is known for its superior warmth-to-weight ratio, incredible packability and softness. But there are varying grades available, measured by the amount of cubic inches 1oz of down takes up. For instance, a 900-fill jacket means 1oz of this very fine, soft down will take up 900 cubic inches, while 1oz of a 650-fill will take up 650 cubic inches. A 900-fill jacket is warmer (because it traps more air), lighter (because there’s less fill needed) and more compressible. As with duvets, goose down is more luxurious than duck down, while feathers are a cheaper and bulkier option. Down jackets have a fill of both down and feathers, and the higher the ratio of down to feathers, the better the insulation. So 90/10 means the filling is 90% down and 10% feathers. No man-made fibre matches down for its warmth-to-weight ratio, and no synthetic can beat its longevity if properly looked after. However, down does lose its ability to insulate when wet and is very slow to dry. Synthetics are better at insulating when wet and dry quicker, too. Primaloft is a popular synthetic filling used by the Berghaus, Keela and Montane jackets on test here.

Construction
To hold insulation in place, manufacturers may stitch or bond the inner and outer layers together to create compartments that hold the insulation in place. However, cold spots can develop along the lines of stitching, which some jackets compensate for by using additional lining. Alternatively, box-wall construction traps the insulation in a series of boxes to avoid the problem of cold spots, but this is more expensive.

Fabric
Check the outer fabric — does it feel like it will snag and tear easily? A very lightweight fabric may not be that durable, especially if it is not of rip-stop quality, which can prevent a small tear turning into a big hole. Some jackets have reinforced areas on the shoulders or elbows. Water-resistant fabric or a water-repellent coating will obviously help prevent the filling getting wet.

Fit
Try a range of jackets on and see what fits you best. If you are going to be wearing it as a fourth layer over a shell, allow some extra space. Flexibility and adjustments are key to fine-tuning the perfect fit and preventing draughts and heat loss. Do the cuffs and hem have adjustable fastenings? Does it offer good freedom of movement without the jacket riding up at the back? A fleece-lined and high-fitting collar is a nice touch, while draw cords at the hem and neck are useful for keeping out draughts.

Design
A full-length zipped jacket or a smock top is a matter of personal choice. Smocks tend to be lighter, but full-length zips provide better ventilation, versatility and ease of use.

Zips
Is it possible to open these with gloves on? A protective wind flap behind the zip helps keep out draughts and retain heat.

Pockets
Deep hand-warming pockets are very useful, and zipped chest pockets are accessible and ideal for stashing items safely away. Internal pockets are great in colder climes for storing items that benefit from body heat (like a bottle of water, camera or batteries).

Hood
If you need a hood, your options are ones that are detachable, fixed or roll-down. Check to see how a hood fits: is it adjustable; can you turn your head and still see out? Carrying a hat in your pocket may be a good alternative.

Cuffs
Elasticated cuffs are simple, but Velcro adjustable cuffs are more versatile, allowing sleeves to be rolled up for ventilation and fine-tuned to seal around your wrists.

Top tip
It’s best not to store Puffa jackets in their stuff sacks long-term as this can permanently compress their structure and ruin their ability to trap air and keep you warm.